3D Printer Settings Database

Find recommended slicer and firmware settings for your printer. Select your printer below or search by name.

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Build Volume: 220x220x250mm | Direct Drive | 32-bit

Filament Compatibility (Stock/Factory)

Understanding 3D Printer Settings

Getting the right settings for your 3D printer is crucial for successful prints. These recommended settings are starting points based on community feedback and manufacturer recommendations.

Slicer Settings Explained

Nozzle Temperature: The temperature of your hot end. Higher temps improve layer adhesion but can cause stringing. PLA typically prints at 190-220C, PETG at 230-250C.

Bed Temperature: Heated bed temperature for adhesion. PLA needs 50-60C, PETG needs 70-85C, ABS needs 90-110C.

Print Speed: How fast your printer moves while extruding. Slower speeds generally produce better quality but take longer.

Retraction: Pulls filament back to prevent oozing. Bowden setups need more retraction (4-7mm) than direct drive (0.5-2mm).

Firmware Settings Explained

Steps/mm: How many motor steps to move 1mm. Critical for dimensional accuracy. Calibrate with a test cube.

Acceleration: How quickly the print head speeds up/slows down. Higher values = faster prints but more ringing/ghosting.

Jerk/Junction Deviation: Controls instant speed changes at corners. Lower values = smoother corners but slower prints.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why do I need different settings for different materials?
Each material has different melting points, shrinkage rates, and adhesion properties. PLA is forgiving and prints at lower temps, while ABS needs higher temps and an enclosure to prevent warping.
Should I use these exact settings?
These are recommended starting points. Every printer is slightly different, and environmental factors like room temperature and humidity can affect results. Use these as a baseline and fine-tune as needed.
What's the difference between Bowden and Direct Drive?
Bowden systems have the extruder motor mounted on the frame with a tube to the hot end - lighter but needs more retraction. Direct drive has the motor on the print head - heavier but better for flexibles and needs less retraction.
How do I calibrate my steps/mm?
Print a 20mm calibration cube and measure it. If it's off, adjust your steps/mm: new_steps = current_steps * (expected / actual). For example, if your 20mm cube measures 19.8mm: new_steps = 80 * (20 / 19.8) = 80.8 steps/mm.